When setting up the suspension on your bike, it is important to have the suspension compress slightly (sag) when sitting on the bike. Setting the proper amount of sag will allow the bike to follow the terrain better and maintain proper frame angles. The proper sag setting also determines the air pressure or spring rate so that major adjustments will not be required on the trail.
Follow the steps below:
- Place a zip tie around the shock shaft (your shock may already have an o-ring).
- Slide the tie or o-ring up to the base of the shock body.
- Sit on the bike with your full weight on the saddle. (It’s best to do this while wearing your full riding gear)
- Look down and make sure the tie is still against the shock body, and then slowly step off the bike
- Measure the distance between the shock body and the zip tie/o-ring. The proper measurement should be between 3/8 and ½ inch (9.5-12.5mm)
- Adjust pressure up or down accordingly.
- Re-check your settings after a few rides. The shock seals will break in and the pressure will need to be adjusted.
If, over time, the rear end on your frame develops side play, take the following steps to track down the reason:
- Check your rear hub bearing adjustment and spoke tension first to make sure your rear wheel is not the culprit.
- Make sure the 4mm Horst-link bolts are tight.
- Make sure the 5mm shock eyelet bolt is tight (a small amount of play at the shock itself is normal)
- Re-check the rear end for play. If there is still play move on to step 5.
- Remove drive side crank arm.
- Tighten the 8mm pivot bolt at the lower yoke until there is no play in the lower swingarm. Be careful not to over tighten, a 3 inch allen wrench can generate enough torque to adequately tighten the main pivot bolt. Over-tightening may result in crushed bearings.
- Re-check the rear end for play. If this has not solved the problem, see BEARING REPLACEMENT.
- Re-install drive side crank arm.
- Go ride!
The life of the sealed bearings and Horst pivot bushings on your bike will vary depending on the type of conditions you ride in and the way you ride. You should be able to get two or more years out of your Horst pivots if you disassemble them every 6-12 months to clean and re-lube the bushings.
To replace Horst pivot bushings and/or cartridge bearings you will need the following tools:
- Plastic Mallet
- Blunt ended punch
- A vice or press with smooth jaws (not serrated)
Bushing replacement:
Important!!!! When removing the bushings, extreme care must be taken not to damage the surfaces which the bushings press into. Take your time with this project. Chances are good that the bushings will not come out easily.
- Remove your rear wheel.
- Remove rear brake and derailleur cables, rear brake, rear derailleur, and chain.
- Use a 4mm allen wrench to remove the two Horst-link bolts.
- Slide the dropouts off of the swing arm.
- Use a 6mm allen to remove the rear shock bolt which connects the shock to the seat stay.
- Use a 5mm allen to remove the upper X-Link bolts from the seat stay. Remove the seat stay from the front triangle
- Remove the Horst link pivot pins from the drop outs.
- Insert the blunt ended punch into the bushing housing on the drop out.
- Line the punch up with the bushing lip.
- Tap the punch with your mallet.
- Move to the opposite side of the bushing and repeat step 10.
- Tap the bushing in a top, bottom, left, right pattern so that the bushing slides out straight.
- Continue in the above order until the bushing is fully removed.
- Repeat steps 8-13 on the opposite bushing.
- Lightly oil the new bushings before installation.
- Hold the seat stay bushing housing between the vice jaws.
- Position the new bushing against the housing, making sure the bushing is not cocked. Press only one bushing at a time.
- Slowly close the vice jaws against the bushing face. Make sure the bushing is going in straight.
- Continue closing vice jaws until bushing is flat against bushing housing.
- Repeat steps 15-19 for opposite bushing.
- After the bushings have been replaced, lightly grease the insides and the faces of the bushings.
- Follow steps 1-7 in reverse for re-assembly.
Bearing Replacement:
Your main pivot has been equipped with 4 sealed cartridge bearings (3 on Ti models) that offer a smooth ride and minimal maintenance. Over time, your cartage bearings may become worn and allow play or cause your rear end to rotate roughly. In this event, we suggest you replace your cartridge bearings according to the following instructions:
- Remove your rear wheel.
- Remove your drive side crank arm.
- Use a 4mm allen wrench to remove the two Horst-link bolts.
- Slide dropouts off of the lower swingarm.
- Remove the 8mm main pivot pin. Be ready to catch the two washers as the pin is removed.
- Remove the lower swingarm from the front triangle
- Using a blunt ended punch, tap out the far set of bearings in a top, bottom, left, right pattern.
- Tap the other set of bearings out of the frame, taking care not to scar the inside of the frame. Do not attempt to re-use the bearings you’ve removed, even if they come out intact.
- Apply a small amount of grease to the outside edge of the new bearings.
- Using a vice of press, and a friend to hold your frame still, press in the bearings one at time. Make sure they go in straight and that you’re pressing on both the inner and outer races evenly.
- Install both bearings on one side of the frame.
- Re-insert the compression sleeve inside the bearing shell.
- Press the second set of bearings into your frame.
- Apply grease to the threads, shaft and head of the 8mm pivot pin.
Special Note: If you have the stainless steel 6mm solid pivot pin instead of the 6mm
hollow aluminum pin, it will be necessary to apply blue locktite to the threads and the
head of the main pivot instead of grease.
- Have your friend hold the swingarm up to the front triangle as you align the washer and insert the pin into the drive side of the swing arm.
- Align the washer on the non-drive side swingarm and slide the pin through. A gentle tap with a rubber mallet may be necessary, but take care not to hammer the threads into the swingarm on the other side.
- Tighten the 8mm main pivot pin until snug. Be careful not to over tighten, a standard 3 inch allen tool can generate enough torque to adequately tighten the main pivot bolt. Over tightening may result on crushed bearings.
- Follow steps 1-4 in reverse for re-assembly.